Wednesday, 3 February 2016

Dambulla to Negombo

We decided to extend our driver's contract by getting him to take us to our final Sri Lankan destination in Negombo where we hope to relax and recuperate in advance of the Indian segment of our tour.

The driver is named Sarath, his phone number is +94 777 438 876 and email address ttpdambulla@gmail.com and we can thoroughly recommend him.

As he drove us along the road, heavily congested because of widening works, I had time to contemplate the meaning of signals in Sri Lankan traffic.

No indication at all means: I am going to proceed normally, I am about to stop inexplicably, I am about to veer to the right or left, plus my indicator/brake lights may or may not be working.

Left hand indicator means: Any of the above plus my left hand indicator works.

Right hand indicator means: Any of the above plus my right hand indicator works.

Hazard lights mean: Any of the above plus both my indicator lights work.

Priority is determined by size as modified by speed and loudness of air horn. Thus buses always have priority and you may have to slow down or even stop if confronted by one coming towards you on what is nominally your side of the road.

As the size of vehicle decreases, the rules get more nebulous. The rules of course do not apply to tuk-tuks at all.

After the ultra-smooth and comfortable Amaya Lake Hotel near Dambulla, first impressions of the Tranquil Negombo Boutique Hotel on the outskirts of Negombo came as something of a shock.

Firstly, it was needlessly difficult to find as there is absolutely no signage at all to point to its existence. You have to phone it up for someone to open an anonymous roadside gate.

Secondly, located alongside a moderately busy road under the flightpath of the international airport, the word tranquil is somewhat of a misnomer.

We were ushered into a ground floor bedroom festooned with bright blue LED lighting with a remote control sporting a baffling array of buttons, I presume to underline the hotel's 'boutique' credentials. The television was only connected to a SSD drive and thus couldn't receive any broadcast signal. The spacious bathroom contained enough space for several baths, but was only fitted with a shower.

Leaving the hotel on foot, we walked westward along little roads, buying buns at small wayside bakeries, until we got to the sea. We noticed several people with bags of beer and tracked down the local wine store, the equivalent of an off licence. Here the helpful assistant informed us that all the shops will be closed tomorrow for independence day, so we stocked up on beer for the duration.

A beer at the Port Bar on the beach at sunset, then we ambled to the Tusker restaurant where they served us an excellent seafood platter and I tasted the local firewater. This is called Arrack, distilled from fermented coconut flower sap, and very commendable it is too.

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