First day in Kandy

We were late for breakfast, possibly by several decades. It was a gloomy affair lightened by the choice of background music. Out of the speakers came the refrain 'I've seen better times....', we looked at each other and burst out laughing.

We are getting to know the hotel electrician quite well. Yesterday he fixed the TV so it now at least shows a single channel which he proudly fixed to BBC News. Today he's replaced the batteries which power the safe deposit box so we can use it again.

After breakfast we walked to the temple of the tooth but I wasn't allowed in because I was wearing THE WRONG TROUSERS. Didn't take long to return in longer trousers though, and the temple complex was fascinating.

We dutifully shuffled past the shrine where Buddha's tooth is locked away in multiple nests of caskets, amidst a long queue of believers carrying floral offerings. Meanwhile a creche of wailing children waited with their mothers to receive blessings. With the flowers, incense and noise it was quite an experience.

Then to a small octagonal turret housing a small octagonal library. Some conventional books but the older ones beautifully made of bound palm leaves.

A new shrine followed with panels detailing the history of the tooth up to the 19th century, then the museum of votive offerings and other paraphernalia. My favourite exhibit was a pair of tusker jingle bells which were attached around the ankles of the elephant that carried the reliquary in processions.

After stopping to admire the Kandian King's audience house, a magnificent open wooden pavilion, we entered the Tusker museum. Here proudly stands the stuffed national hero of an elephant called Raja who bore the reliquary for 50 years until his demise in 1988.

The archeological museum, housed in a long bungalow which was formerly a King's palace, was mostly full of carved pillars and posts. We wandered back via various gaudy Hindu shrines, stupas and sacred Buddhist Bo trees.

After lunch we walked two miles around the ornamental lake that occupies the centre of the city. It was built by the last king, a tyrant whose supporters helped him build the dam to flood the paddy fields of the valley floor, and whose opposition were then staked to the bed of the newly forming lake. It is now alive with fish, ducks, storks, herons, egrets, comorants and even a pelican.

Finally we visited the Garrison Cemetery. This is a beautifully maintained poignant reminder of the sacrifice previous generations of British made to settle this land. So many died of tropical disease at such young ages, and so many of those were children. We were shown round by the caretaker who opened the small museum for us, and left feeling quite humbled by the courage demonstrated to come out here in those times.

Supper occurred at the Devon restaurant again. Superbly cooked Indian food, albeit with erratic service, but on average costing five pounds for the two of us!